Saturday, April 23, 2011

Ronde and Ronde: The Sportive-ing Life

Apologies for the delay in presenting this post. Though you all have done a fine job of keeping your barely-controllable desire for vicarious access to the amazing Belgian adventures of Frank Lazlo and The Bomber under control (so much so that one might otherwise wonder if you are even aware we went anywhere), other matters impressed themselves on my life to the point I could not maintain the pace of my daily recaps. Particularly, I came down with the predictable (if, according to KFO, medically impossible) post-trip illness, at the same time I was forced to match wits with a lizard that took up residence in our sofa while we were out of town (my dogged pursuit of the reptile coupled with The Bomber's lightning-quick reflexes carried the day. Eventually.)

And so. We pick up the tale as we set out to do what we came to do: ride the cobbled climbs of Flanders.




I know. Can we really be THAT handsome a couple?!? Should the good people of the Rapha Bicycle-Oriented Clothing Company need roving ambassadors to quite literally pedal their wares, we hereby zip up our gilets and toss our birettas into the ring.

We were led onto Flanders' cobbled climbs by no less than Eric DeClerq, verteran of 12 years with the Belgian professional squad Collstrop, having raced the Ronde Van Vlaanderen, Paris-Roubaix, and many other Classics and Semi-classics during that time. The Bomber, needless to say, was more than a little excited to be following Eric down the same roads he raced on:




The object of the day's game was to ride many of the climbs used in the Tour of Flanders the day before the cyclosportive event, during which there would be approximately 19,785 more riders on the course. Among the other groups who had the same idea were the squads of Liquigas, Lampre, Astana, Radio Shack, and Landbouwkreidit (Sven Nys rode right by me! ahhhhhhhhhh!!!!!). We started the day on the Oude Kwaremont, where the Bomber was politely asked to move aside by Peter Sagan of Liquigas, only to have the Liquigas team car lose traction on the steep and wet cobbles and come to a complete stop, thus screwing pretty much everyone's attempt at the climb.




The sharp eyed among you will note that is not the Oude Kwaremont, but is instead the significantly steeper Koppenberg. We were stopped here too, this time by the ambulance you can see in the background that came to rescue a cyclist who managed to fall and break his hip. While riding uphill. Flanders cobbles are like that: hard and polished. And hard. Steep too:




From here, however, our successes would mount, as we cleaned the Taienberg, Molenberg, Paterberg (only the Bomber managed this one, as I was thwarted by a balky drivetrain at the bottom and a Belgian's bottom at the top), as well as the less well-known but equally challenging downhill stretch of pave known as the Lippenhouvenstraat. Here, the Bomber makes the hard left at the top of the Paterberg, which is every bit as steep as its more famous cousin, the Koppenberg.




And here, Eric explains that I am somewhere behind the group because every bolt in my bike, and my eyeballs, have been rattled from their respective moorings and I will be delayed until everything is returned to its anatomically appropriate place. Meanwhile, the guys in the group are trying to wrap their heads around the fact that the Bomber stayed firmly planted in the middle of the group across the cobbles.




Everyone has they own kind of motivation, and the Bomber's success was due in no small part to the fact the ride ended at the Ronde Van Vlaanderen Museum in Oudenaarde, which has a cafe. In Belgium, coffee is served without fail on a silver tray, accompanied by at least one biscuit or other sweet. Properly.




Meanwhile I took in the sights, which for me involved being photographed with every Belgian and Flandrian flag I could find, because I am cheesy.




With the course reconnoitered, we were ready to ride it at Belgian sportive pace in the largest cyclosportive event in the world (non fact-checked version), the Ronde Van Vlaanderen Cyclosportive. On the day we did it, there were a record 19,800 participants. That is a lot of people to put on a 140 kilometer stretch of sidewalk.




I have read in other corners of the interwebs that the Ronde sportive event was a bloc with squirrelly riders. Statistically speaking, if you have 20,000 cyclists on the same roads at the same time, there will be a few tweakers in the mix, but our experience was quite different. The vast majority rode extremely well, lines were held, wheels were not overlapped and the rubber side stayed down. Again, not an easy task when pretty much all of the 135 kilometers we rode looked like this:




As in the Ronde itself, the Sportive is defined by the climbs, and the Belgians turn out to watch the amateurs suffer. Throughout the day I was able to track the Bomber's progress by the sound of the crowds on the climbs when she passed. In five plus hours of riding, I saw three women other than the Bomber, so this was a rare sight indeed:




Props to the Belgian men for being surprisingly good sports while they were repeatedly subjected to this sort of treatment, much to the spectators' vocal delight:




That's the Bomber cleaning the inside line at the top of the Kappelmuur, which runs somewhere in the neighborhood of 24 percent. On cobbles. A more accurrate depiction of exactly how hard this stretch of cobbles is looks like this:




The Belgians love a good pain face, as it happens. So while my popularity did not approach the Bomber's, by the end of the day I knew how to say "That guy is going to need an ambulance" in Flemish.

After the Bosberg, it is a false flat downhill with a slight tailwind into the finish at Ninove. Ride that section and you know why Boonen was never going to catch Cancellara in the 2010 Ronde. And somewhere in Flanders there's a group of middle age men in black kit with a big Z on the back wondering why the hell they weren't able to catch some chick in a red jersey on the same stretch of road. Of course they did not see the Bomber tuck in among the team cars for a 25 mph rest in the outskirts of Ninove, nor did they see the impressive job done by her faithful domestique in the closing kilometers. Which, in the interest of full disclosure, is where I finally caught her. Having spent a little too long on the back of the group of Masters cyclists in their fetching black on black with added black accented kits wondering when they would take up the chase, I was - as Phil and Paul might say - caught out when I finally realized The Bomber would take top honors if I did not put my own nose in the wind. So chase I did, and thanks to the several thousand rolling obstacles in the road, I was finally able to latch on to the Bomber's wheel in time to roll under the red kite.




The Ronde Sportive is one hell of a hard ride. The last 50 kilometers are one berg after another with precious little time to recover in between. Still, I don't know when we have had more fun riding, which is all the more surprising given that we usually seek out the most deserted roads we can find and here found ourselves in the largest rolling crowd we have ever seen or heard tell of. It is a rare thing that an event like this lives up to all the expectations you pile on it during the months of preparation, but the Ronde Sportive certainly did that.



Frank Lazlo

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Lost in Translation: Riding on the sidewalk to Eddy's house

Generally speaking, other people are just fine with me as long as they keep their distance, the exception being if they are on a bike in front of me on a bike and thus serving the useful purpose of sheltering me from the wind. Put simply, people are ok by me - as fairings. Though the Bomber has a much higher tolerance for people who are not on bicycles, she prefers they keep their distance when astride a bicycle. It is a measure of our willingness to leap into the unknown and embrace new experiences that I would be around people after they got off their bikes and the Bomber would be around them while on bikes. It turns out pretty much everyone in our group was delightful, and we thoroughly enjoyed their company.







The fact that we immensely enjoyed the company of others both on and off the bike should not be taken as license for any of you to try to get me (in particular) to do anything else new and different. Seriously, just keep your distance and everything will be cool.

So on our first day in Belgium we set off with more than a dozen of our new friends to shake out the cobwebs that gathered on our trip eastward, with the ostensible destination of the Eddy Merckx bicycle factory, in Meise, nearby to the YSCX Mobile HQ (Velo Classic Tours Edition), in Mechelen.




A word about riding in Belgium: smaller. Road? Think driveway, then think half your driveway. Bike path? Think sidewalk, and not the big downtown version, the two-person sized neightborhood version. And if there is a bike path, you better be on it because there is another word about riding in Belgium: huge. Tractor? Think semi. Trailer full of cow manure? Think motorhome full of fertilizer. April in Belgium? Fertilizing season.




It was in the Belgian style that we rode bar to bar on sidewalks covered in cow shit at 20 miles per hour, dodging the traffic furniture (big flower boxes in the middle of the road) Belgians love to drop in the road every three kilometers or so. Factor in cross winds, drainage ditches dropping immediately from the side of the "bike path" and you quickly come to understand why Belgians are such badass bike handlers. The lame ones are dead.




So why, you are likely wondering, am I regaling you with tales of manure-laden sidealks, narrow city streets and huge farm machinery rather than interesting photos of the inner workings of the factory that makes some of the most storied bikes by the greatest cyclist to have ever turned a pedal in anger? Yes, well, it turns out the Eddy may still live here but he sure don't work here any more.




That is one disappointed Bomber. Still, valuable lessons were learned about the Belgian aversion to straight, uncluttered roads, and their indifference to cyclists peeing in the ditch by the side of the road, both of which would serve us well in the significantly more interesting days to come.

Frank Lazlo

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Back from Belgium

The Bomber and I have returned from Belgium, which looks like this:




And this:




Where they take cycling and public art very, um, seriously:




Where the food is really, really good (even without the mayonnaise and
butter and butter and mayonnaise):




Where they make beer. Lots and lots of pretty damn good beer:




And where chocolate is not used as a substitute for sex, it's the same thing:




They also know a thing or two about the riding of the bicycle on roads both paved and cobbled:




Even if I do not (turns out it works better if the bike is under you):




Once we have unpacked, collected our thoughts, and sorted our photos, I will put up some pictures accompanied by words to tell you about what we got up to.

Frank Lazlo